Bay Res Fitting Guide

BayRes Fitting Guide

We receive quite a number of emails from people who want to know how to fit the barbs and plug to the BayRes reservoir. Many of these emails also contain the incorrect view that the bay reservoirs are subject to cracking at the barb inlet and outlet points. Just to clarify the situation the reason for this is not the bay reservoir but rather the barbs that are used and how they are fitted.

Down to the basics

Practically all non 'O' ring fitted brass barbs are manufactured with an inbuilt taper. This is because many of them are used almost exclusively in the building and plumbing industries. They are used because they form a simple but effective interference fit with the walls of the threaded socket to which they are fitted. With the addition of plumbing tape, or Teflon tape as it is commonly referred to, a sealed joint can be made by tightening the barb forcefully into the socket. This form of sealing joint has become the norm in the plumbing industry. The problems occur when it is used in a water cooling setting where it can and does wreak havoc.

The problem lies in the fact that the tapered portion of the thread in these barbs increases in size from the start of the thread upwards to the hexagonal or tightening section of the barb. This makes the shape of a tapered thread similar to a wedge. As more turning force is applied on the thread the wedge shape is driven further into the hole. While this is okay with plumbing fittings which are designed to cope with such stresses it is not okay with plastic component designed for water cooling systems. Should the tapered thread be driven into an opening of less circumference than the taper...........well something has to give and of course in this case it will be the weakest point. The weakest point in of the BayRes are the areas nearest to the force applied viz; the barb inlet and outlet sockets. This type of situation is not unique to the BayRes. Any plastic part be it reservoir or whatever will fail if sufficient force is applied through a tapered fitting. We have had radiators built to withstand far more stressors than the plastic components fail when tapered fittings are used. The answer to this problem is in the thread.........................so enter the parallel thread.

Parallel threaded barbs are not unique. The 'O' ringed versions, discussed above, have been in use for a very long time. Wherever it is possible we prefer to use them instead of the non 'O' ringed counterparts. The problem is that to fit an 'O' ringed part means that you will need the face of the socket to meet flush with the 'O' ring or no leak proof seal will take place. This is not always possible so the parallel threaded non 'O' ringed barb is the simplest answer. With no taper on the thread these parts can be screwed all the way in without a problem. The issue though is how do you get them to form a leak proof seal. If you wrap them in Teflon tape and screw them in you have simply gone back to the tapered thread design. The answer to this one is to glue them in either semi permanently using Araldite or with Silicon sealant applied to the threads.

We like our BayRes barbs to be very secure so we use Araldite. The process for the Silicon sealant and Araldite methods are the same so its very simple.

You will need a small amount of Araldite adhesive. I prefer to get the small packs of 5 minute Araldite from the Supermarket.

You will need to work quickly with this adhesive so pre plan where your barbs are going to fit and have them at hand. Mix a small amount of Araldite and apply to the barbs across the thread. We have provided some pictures here to illustrate . The black taped areas represent the positions where you should place a small amount of the adhesive. Do not over do it. Keep in mind that you can clean the barbs after installation if you do put to much on the threaded areas.

We place four wipes of Araldite on the threads as shown here.

The same process is used if you decide on using a right angled bend in your BayRes four wipes per thread.

With the plug included you should have the following areas which will require wipes of adhesive.

Fit each barb as you go so that the Adhesive will not drip off the threads of the barbs.

What you will end up with is something like this in the straight barbed version.

Or in the case of the right angled fitting being used something like this.

The Araldite will cure for use in about an hour. Although we have used the BayRes after 1 hour it is strongly recommended that you leave the BayRes for about eight hours to be sure.

Should you require to remove the barbs for any reason we have had success in heating up the barbs (only) with a hair dryer and then easing them out with a spanner.

So hope this guide is of some use to you.