The three tap system is probably the easiest method of filling and emptying your water cooling system. It does away with the problems associated with "t" air traps or reservoirs.

It can be used "in the line" for testing water return temperatures as an extension of its basic filling and emptying function as shown in the picture below.

The velocity of the water flow can be maintained during the whole of the loop without the deceleration and acceleration of the water exhibited in reservoir based water cooling loops.

Topping up the system or water changes to replace spent corrosion inhibitor are quickly and easily accomplished without the need for removal of the components from the case. Where case space is a problem the 3 tap system can be adapted to fit in even the most difficult settings by re arranging its configuration.

What do you need

To build a DIY 3 tap system you will need the components shown below.

These parts are included in our DIY 3 Tap Kit. This can be found on the water cooling page or alternatively they can be sourced yourself.

Construction

It is necessary to cut several parts before assembly. The three taps need to be modified to suit the configuration you wish to use. Generally the need to cut parts will not vary so the most used configuration is given here. The barbed section of the Eheim tap should be removed as shown in the pictures below. Pay particular attention to the final exploded assembly picture and confirm the cut you are about to make before you cut. Confirm if the open tap will foul and/or impede the assembly before committing to a cut. As usual we take no responsibility if you make an error. A handy hint is to cut the tap unit shown in figure two last.

You will need two of the taps to be cut like this;

Figure One

The third tap should be cut like this

Figure Two

Assembly

What you should end up with is given here in the exploded assembly

Figure Three

You can use Teflon tape to seal the threads this is commonly referred to as plumbers tape. Alternatives are Teflon paste made by LA-CO sold as "Slic-tite" or one of the Loctite pastes.

The part shown at the lower right of Figure Three is the connection to the pump housing in the case of Eheim pumps. Should you wish to use another variety of pump without a screw in housing on the pump it will be necessary to fit another barb here. The included right angle bend in the DIY Kit is provided so that the pump can be placed sideways in the case and is optional.

The threads should be wrapped in tape and screwed into the brass fittings taking care not to over tighten the plastic parts. It is obvious that should the plastic be stressed by over tightening it will break leaving the threaded portion inside of the brass fitting. What you should end up with is illustrated below in Figure Four.

Figure Four

Installation into the Eheim pump housing is now a simple matter of screwing in the completed assembly. Care should be taken not to stress the pump housing by over tightening the components. A small amount of Silicon sealant applied to the exposed Teflon tape area is of value here to avoid potential flexure leakage. The completed 3 tap attached to the Eheim pump in a cross case configuration is shown in Figure Five.

Figure Five

Other configurations are

Horizontal Configuration

Rotating this configuration also provides vertical mounting of the unit inside the case. I am sure that other configuration will occur to the reader.

The three tap system provides a very flexible method for the vexing question of water cooling system maintenance and up keep. I hope this guide has been helpful in providing most of the answers relating to the 3 tap construction